Jason Bangerter at work.
Nicholo Plaza
Jason Bangerter does it all. He heads up the kitchen at Oliver & Bonacini's Luma in Toronto's Bell Lightbox, perfects recipes, experiments with seasonal foods and techniques, and night after night, ensures that his team churns out world-class dishes for the city's most discerning foodies.
He also single-handedly cooks for his large extended family every Christmas. Bangerter recently sat down with OurFaves.com to share his favourite holiday recipes, cooking tips and a brief glimpse inside his refrigerator.
Do you cook much over the holidays?
Christmas Eve is at my house and I serve pate, great cheese and oysters to start. BBQ - this year, a Canadian Prime beef rib is aging for the special night. Roasted roots tossed in warm mustard vinaigrette and smokey bacon baked mac & cheese. Finishing the meal with souffle, cigars and scotch in the garage.
What is your most requested dish?
Depends on who you ask. Lamb with mustard and honey. Passion fruit souffle, Mac & Cheese, shucked East Coast oysters, and chicken liver pate.
I cook everything. Family brings wine. I wake up at 7am and cook all day. I love it. My kids will be helping me this year. They will be rolling the noodles for the mac and cheese. They love making pasta!
Do you get help? Is it hectic?
Sure it is hectic. What house isn’t at Christmas? It is a good hectic though. A healthy stress. I look forward to it every year.
What ingredient have you been using a lot lately? Why?
Holiday spices - Christmas Spice (click here for Jason’s recipe), mushrooms, truffle, game, chestnuts, root vegetables , many varieties of citrus…Meyer lemon, finger limes and clementines..
What are you favourite ingredients to use in the winter?
Root Vegetables from the cellar-onion, rutabaga, celery root, parsnip and carrots to name a few. Winter spices used in soup, marinades, desserts and beverages...Cinnamon, clove, juniper, nutmeg, vanilla and anise.
Can you share a tried and true recipe for a dish that always makes it to your family's holiday dinner table?
Mac & Cheese (click here for Jason’s Christmas Eve Mac & Cheese recipe). I don’t use macaroni. I use gargonelli. Or rigatoni. Bigger meaty noodles. I use double smoked bacon, freshly grated nutmeg, black pepper, Dijon, cave aged gruyere and parmesan. I taste it and tweak it. I don’t serve it until it is magic on the tongue.
What dish do you most look forward to making and eating when the holidays roll around?
I look forward to it all. I think my family is most excited about dessert. Souffle. Always the highlight.
Souffle is intimidating for many people. Any tips?
Souffle is so simple (click here for Bangerter’s Passion Fruit Souffle recipe). You just have to try. #1. Have a glass of wine. Relax. #2. Clean all your tools well. Mixing bowl, wisks, and spatulas. Wipe with lemon juice. Make sure there is no trace of food or fats of any kind on your tools. #3. Have all your ingredients at room temp. #4. Butter your ramekins well. #5. Dust the ramekins with castor sugar. #6. Pre heat your oven. #7. Have fun.
What's your favourite holiday drink?
Eggnog on ice with good bourbon and Christmas spice. Good way to start Breakfast lunch or dinner during the holidays.
What's the most important piece of advice you can give to cooks at home who don't have a formal culinary education?
Experiment. Be adventurous. Try new recipes. Try new foods.
What does a good chef always have in his fridge?
Always have good quality extra virgin olive oil in your pantry. A chunk of Reggiano, good aged vinegars, fresh lemon and limes. Use fresh herbs and spices when cooking. Buy herbs and spices as you need them. Especially dry spices. Try to buy them whole and grind them yourself in a coffee or spice grinder. The worst thing when using dry spices or herbs is when someone buys too much and it sits in the pantry for a year. Not good for cooking! Fresh ground pepper (spices and herbs ) is a must. Buy a mill. Use kosher salt. Easier to use and tastier than standard table salt. I’m a sucker for truffle. I always have a splash of truffle oil in the pantry. Fresh ground pepper, parmesan and truffle oil on some pasta...I eat that a lot. Grow herbs. Get a pot or add the garden. Great for quick recipes and fun for the kids. Parsley, chives, rosemary, basil and thyme are great to experiment with. Shop at the farmers market when in season. Talk to farmers and artisan producers. Learn about your regions products and get inside tips from their producers.
What were some of your favourite cookbooks when you were starting out?
"Soup Beautiful" by Rojas Lombardi and "Gotham Bar and Grill" by Alfred Portale were two that I really connected with in the early days. Very inspiring and fantastic food.
How would you describe your culinary philosophy?
It is simple. The best ingredients treated with respect and care.
Tasteful simple food Prepared with passion and solid techniques to preserve the integrity of the products being used. Influence the entire experience. Connect with the guest.
Where did the philosophy come from?
Years of working with talented passionate people.
It is also realizing that being a chef is not just about cooking. It is about creating an experience. It is about making a connection with guests through good food and memorable emotional service to deliver something special and even, once in a while, life changing.
Can you tell us about Luma's winter menu?
Winter is a fantastic time of year. Some of my favourite cooking…braises, hearty soups, stews and rustic earthy flavours make for tasty heart warming, satisfying dishes. Come check it out.
What sets Luma apart from other O&B restaurants?
Sharing a space with The Toronto International Film Festival. The place is alive with something always going on and there is constant requests for themed events and menus. We are working with TIFF to create a Food on Film series launching in 2012. It will combine the best food films with Luma creations inspired by these film and host guest chefs from Food Network Canada creating a food and film experience like no other.
What are some dishes you're really excited about?
Pork with cider, caillette, kohlrabi and apple. Rosemary roasted lamb rump with heirloom carrots, quinoa, sweet breads and garlic. Seared scallops with foie gras butter, beluga lentils and sherry vinegar.
Meet Jason Bangerter and see him in action next year at the annual St. Lawrence Market Executive Chef Series.