MENUMENTAL: Salmon running wild in nicoise

This year's sockeye salmon run up British Columbia's Fraser River is expected to be 30 million strong, the greatest in almost a century and 20 times larger than the terrifyingly small run of 1.5 million in 2009. While this sudden abundance does not mean B.C.'s salmon fishery is saved, it's a good time for salmon lovers to head down to their local fishmonger and enjoy this exquisite delicacy while they can.

The difference between wild and farmed salmon is like night and day. Salmon raised in aquiculture are from the Atlantic species, even though most salmon farms are on the Pacific Ocean. Because they swim around in pens all day, the flesh is super fatty to the point of being unpleasantly greasy.

The wild sockeye gracing fish counters these days has a deep orange colour, lean flesh and robust flavour that makes farmed salmon taste insipid in comparison. Since it's not nearly as fatty as farmed salmon, it should be cooked medium rare to medium to preserve its silky succulence.

Here is a Canadian spin on the classic nicoise salad, using slow-roasted sockeye salmon instead of tuna.

Wild salmon nicoise

Makes 4 lunch servings

3 large eggs at room temperature

6 fingerling potatoes, scrubbed

1/4 lb green beans, trimmed

1 1/4 lb centre-cut wild salmon filet

2 large handfuls baby salad greens

1 medium tomato, cut into wedges

2 tbsp red wine vinegar

1 tbsp Dijon mustard

1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil

4 tsp minced red onion

1 tbsp capers, rinsed, dried, chopped

6 anchovy filets

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Place eggs in small saucepan and cover with cold water. Bring to boil over high heat. Cover and remove from heat. Let stand 15 minutes.

Drain eggs and rinse under cold running water. Peel and set aside.

Place potatoes in medium saucepan and cover with cold water. Bring to boil over high heat, season with salt and reduce to vigorous simmer. Cook until tender, about 12 to 15 minutes. Drain and cool.

Set aside.

Bring medium pot of salted water to boil. Boil green beans until tender, about three minutes. Plunge into ice water until cold, drain and dry on clean kitchen towel. Set aside.

Remove salmon from fridge and place on parchment-lined baking tray. Season with salt. Heat oven to 325 F. Bake salmon on middle rack, 15 minutes for medium-rare and about 20 minutes for well done.

While salmon is cooking, arrange greens on a large serving platter. Top with potatoes halved lengthwise, green beans and tomato. Season lightly with salt and pepper.

In small mixing bowl, whisk together vinegar and mustard. Slowly whisk in oil to form emulsified dressing. Whisk in onion and capers. Drizzle dressing over salad.

Halve eggs lengthwise and arrange around rim, topping each half with an anchovy filet.

Cut fish into four portions, removing skin. Place salmon on top of salad and serve.