The independent spirit that has swept our city's java scene is finally trickling over into pubs.
Restaurateurs are taking on the giant chains, whose monochromatic mediocrity is only a pint and pretty waitress up from fast food. But after recent gastro pub-crawl plagued by inconsistencies, the revolution has a long way to go.The Queen and Beaver Public House (35 Elm St., 647-347-2712, www.queenandbeaver.ca) is Jamison Kerr's attempt to introduce Torontonians to the British local of his youth. He brought on fellow ex-pat Chef Andrew Carter to execute a menu of classics like a terrific cock-a-leekie soup with succulent shreds of chicken, melting leeks and sweet prunes in a heady broth, and hearty rabbit pie, which is like the love child of potato gratin and terrine en croute.Unfortunately, the service is stiff and curt, and I am shocked when the waiter informs a table they've run out of mustard for burgers. (Can't anyone pop over to the convenience store down the street?) Then there are the tables. Complaining about overly polished tables may seem odd until you see how cutlery slides off them like rain on Gore-Tex. There is more clanging and ponging during our meal than a Tom Waits album.The Ceili Cottage (1301 Queen St. E., 416-406-0301, www.ceilicottage.com) is brought to you by Patrick McMurry, world champion oyster shucker and owner of renowned seafood restaurant Starfish. Ceili gets top marks for ambience: the old, creaky room is perfumed with peat smoke and has the friendly vibe of a true, neighbourhood local.My friends and I arrive planning to eat the place out of oysters, which turns out to be an easy task since they only have a dozen left. At 7 p.m. The cheeky waitress defends her boss (aka Shucker Paddy) by saying, "We're an Irish bar; not an oyster bar." The oysters are fresh enough, but are served at an unappetizing room temperature. Other than delicious mushrooms on toast with piquant blue cheese, the rest of the food is forgettable. Peat smoked salmon is under-salted and redolent of ashtray; mussels are scrawny and could be fresher. Obviously McMurray needs to be spending more time at Ceili Cottage, properly stocking the oyster fridge and cracking a whip in the kitchen.Duggan's Brewery (75 Victoria St., 416-214-4900, www.duggansbrewery.com) is my favourite of the lot; a genuine brewpub, where brewmaster Mike Duggan creates sensational suds like a hopped up No. 9 IPA and chocolaty London Porter. The fish and chips, made with meaty halibut, are crisp and amazingly ungreasy. The lamb shank, braised in said porter, falls effortlessly from the bone into moist, meaty morsels onto green onion mashed potatoesHowever, if you're coming to eat, request a table in the quieter back dining room. The rest of the place literally booms with beer-fuelled bravado. Whether it's a chain pub or independent, you can't escape loud, drunken buffoons lying about their golf scores and sexual conquests.