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  • Eric Vellend
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  • Feb 25, 2010 - 10:13 AM
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MENUMENTAL: Miso makes your taste buds go hmmm....

If miso soup is more popular than minestrone and miso cod was the fish dish of the '00s, then why is miso paste still such an under-appreciated ingredient in Canadian kitchens? I think every curious cook should have a tub of the stuff in his or her fridge.

For the unenlightened, miso is a fermented soybean paste that is an essential flavouring agent in Japanese cuisine. It is made by combining cooked soybeans, another grain (usually rice), salt and koji, a mould cultivated in grain. This mixture is then fermented for up to three years, during which it develops a complex savoury flavour that tastes of soy sauce, dried fruit and roasted nuts. (The longer the miso ferments, the darker and stronger it becomes.) It is ground to the consistency of peanut butter and used in soups, salad dressings, marinades and stews.

Due to the many variables - type of grain, strain of koji and duration of fermentation - there are quite a few varieties of miso. The three basic categories are white (shiro), red (aka), and dark brown (hatcho), which correlate to how long it is fermented.

Rich in protein, vitamins and minerals, miso paste is a staple in the vegan kitchen as it's one of the few umami-rich foods that aren't derived from animals. (Others include mushrooms, tomatoes and seaweed.)

Similar fermented bean pastes in other Asian cuisines include Chinese yellow bean paste, fiery Sichuan chili bean paste and Korean doenjang.

Miso is available at health food stores, most Asian markets and increasingly at supermarkets, either in the international aisle or natural foods section. Due to the high salt content, it lasts for months in the fridge.

In addition to dressing salad greens, this miso vinaigrette is delicious drizzled on asparagus, mushrooms, tofu and fish. You could also toss it with cold soba noodles, snow peas and green onion for a Japanese-style pasta salad. With a rich, nutty flavour and thick, creamy texture, this dressing tastes remarkably similar to peanut sauce, a bonus for people with nut allergies.

And like all homemade salad dressings, it tastes infinitely better than the bottled stuff at a fraction of the price.

Miso vinaigrette

Yield: 1 1/4 cups

1 tbsp minced ginger

1/4 cup miso (white or red)

1/4 cup rice vinegar

2 tbsp soy sauce (preferably Japanese)

2 tbsp granulated sugar

2 tbsp water

4 tsp sesame oil

1/2 cup vegetable oil

Place the ginger, miso, vinegar, soy sauce, sugar and water in a blender and blend until smooth. With the machine running, add the sesame and vegetable oils in a slow stream until you have an emulsified dressing. (If you don't have a blender, a bowl, whisk and some elbow grease will do the trick.)

Pour the dressing into an airtight container and label with the date. Refrigerate and use within one month.



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