The ridiculous popularity of Guu, an outpost of the Vancouver-based mini chain of izakaya bars, has sparked a zesty debate on no reservations policies.
Shockingly enough, the folks who have turned to skeletons waiting in Guu's infuriating queues are against it. Personally, I'm all for it.
My two favourite restaurants, Foxley and The Black Hoof, don't take reservations. These are small, casual places, whose tight profit margins would take a beating if a table for four didn't show up on a Saturday night. When the restaurants are full, they will graciously take your cellphone number and give you a buzz when your table is ready. It's up to you to wait, so please don't blame the restaurant if your table takes two hours. You can't enjoy delicious food with a mouth full of sour grapes.
Some restaurants actually thrive on their no reservations policy: the hipster chaos at Pizzeria Libretto is half their shtick. If you don't like it, you could go to Terroni, but they don't take reservations either.
To dine at Local Kitchen&Wine Bar, a sizzling, no-reservations trattoria, you have to think like a grandmother. Guaranteeing a coveted Saturday night table requires showing up before 6 p.m., the ungodly dinner hour of the silver-haired set. The early bird may not be cool, but it beats searching for worms in a dark corner of Parkdale.
Local Kitchen is a collaboration between best buddies Michael Sangregorio (front) and Fabio Bondi (back). The 29-seater is done in thrift store chic, and the concise menu features Italian-style small plates using - surprise - local ingredients.
While the locabore marketing is starting to wear thin on some, who cares when the service is friendly, the vibe convivial and the food spot on?
To start, raw yellow beets are sliced paper thin and arranged carpaccio-style on the plate. In the centre are perfectly dressed escarole hearts and thin shavings of pecorino toscano from Monforte Dairy.
While seemingly simple, this terrific salad offers a broad range of harmonious tastes and textures.
Potatoes are smoked and spun into pitch perfect gnocchi that practically levitate over the plate. Bitter rapini and gooey taleggio cheese show Bondi's ability to make a handful of ingredients shout louder than their sum.
Topped with a fried quail's egg, Berkshire pork belly is crisp, unctuous and meaty, it's richness balanced by a bed of earthy lentils. The restrained portion will keep the Lipitor in the medicine cabinet.
For dessert, a cannoli-style sandwich of pistachio Florentines and sweetened ricotta studded with dried fruit and dark chocolate is tricky to eat, but a total knockout.
Local Kitchen doesn't need anymore good press, but I dare say it's worth the wait. If you're not the patient type, you should stick to restaurants that take reservations.
Local Kitchen&Wine Bar
1710 Queen St. W. (at Roncesvalles Ave.)
416-534-6700
Dinner for two with wine, tax and tip: $115
www.localktichen.ca