When Zane Caplansky opened his makeshift deli on the second floor of the Monarch Tavern last summer, the response ushered in a new era of hyperbolic food media. The praise for his hand-sliced smoked brisket was so unanimous, even the notoriously cranky Chowhounders slathered it on like spicy brown mustard.
My experience there, however, was underwhelming. My first beef was with the Monarch. Jewish delicatessens should be warm, inviting places that smell like chicken soup, not dark, dank saloons that reek of industrial floor cleaner and despair.The smoked meat sammie was also lame. In 40 years of deli dining, I've never had to season a Jewish sandwich with salt. The cure was uneven - some parts were cadaver grey, others dark maroon - and overall it tasted too smoky. I assumed it was an anomaly, but was in no hurry to return to the Monarch to find out.Riding his tsunami of success, Mr. Capalansky smartly left the Monarch and opened a proper delicatessen on the edge of Kensington Market, Toronto's original Jewish neighbourhood. The response made his first foray look like a quaint sandwich shop.Caplansky stockpiled a supply of his signature smoked meat he thought would last a month. It sold out in a week. Fortunately, he invested in a new giant smoker, so "Sorry, No Smoked Meat" signs will be a thing of the past.I love the new Caplansky's - warts and all. The second you crack the door, the aroma of chicken soup and steaming meats embraces you like a zaftig (ample) Bube. Torpedo-size Chicago 58 salamis hang in the back, where two lithe deli men carve smoked brisket and turkey without pause. It's like a hipper version of Yitz's, the deli I grew up on.Unfortunately, the smoked meat still suffers from consistency problems. One night it's as salty as the Dead Sea - a problem voiced by many in recent weeks. On another it's as good as anything I've had in Montreal - sweet, succulent and moist. It's smoky enough to make it unique, but not so much the cowboy hat covers the yarmulke.Hand-slicing meat creates a lot of scrap Caplansky uses in innovative ways. His terrific burger gets a savoury blast of umami from 20 per cent smoked meat, and smoked meat gravy is poured over crisp fries and squeaky curds for deli-style poutine.The smoked turkey is moist, and the chopped liver so creamy it speaks Yiddish with a French accent. The only dish that is a downright dud is a matzo ball soup of leaden ball and weak soup. While the food is unabashedly old school, this is a modern restaurant. There's exposed brick, a young, attractive staff and a bar pouring Ontario craft beers. The average age of the clientele is also a few decades younger than your average Jewish delicatessen.But Caplansky's is not your average delicatessen; it's the deli of the future.Caplansky's Delicatessen356 College St., at Brunswick Avenue416-500-3852www.caplanskysdeli.comDinner for two with beer, tax and tip: $55