Since the Cal-Ital boom of the 1980s, only the anti-carb madness of the fleeting Atkins diet put any kind of dent in the city's insatiable appetite for Italian cuisine.
Today, the "rustic" Italian trend combined with the surging Neapolitan pizza movement has made the neighbourhood trattoria more popular than ever. But it feels like cucina Italiana is reaching its saturation point. Now, any time a new pizzeria, enoteca or osteria opens up, I ask myself: Does this city really need another Italian restaurant? In Cabbagetown, the answer is a resounding yes. F'Amelia, which recently took over the space vacated by Provence Delices, adds a sunny splash of tomato sauce to a neighbourhood dining scene long dominated by Sri Lankan takeout, eggs Benny and pub grub. There is much to love about F'Amelia. The kitchen is led by Splendido alumini Maurizio Verga, and the appetizers show the French influence and refined technique of this hallowed restaurant. Two perfectly seared Hokkaido scallops, sweet and plump, sit atop a nutty sunchoke puree with a fat pan-roasted king oyster mushroom and braised endive. A satisfying winter salad finds peppery arugula topped with warm baby beets, roasted fingerlings, creamy Taleggio cheese and tiny foccacia croutons. A wood-burning oven was installed and manned with a skilled pizzaiolo turning out beautifully charred pies that are a good middle ground between the thin, crisp Roman and the floppy, chewy Neapolitan. The dough is allowed to slowly ferment for three days, which develops a robust flavour that in synch with the smoky oven. Most pizzas are red sauced including the classic quattro stagioni, which is divided into "four seasons" with toppings of cremini mushrooms, not-from-a-jar artichoke hearts, prosciutto cotto (ham) and briny black olives. A ramekin of fresh red chilis preserved in oil is a nice change from the usual dried chili flakes.The selection of pasta and other Italian starches is more inspiring than the average trattoria. You would do well ordering two hefty cannelloni filled with toothsome Savoy cabbage and coarsely ground pork, topped with a zippy tomato sauce and Parmigiano.Beyond the excellent food, the rest of the experience is wanting. The dining room may be lovely in warmer months, when light pours in through the atrium windows and flowers bloom on the terrace. In winter, however, it's cold, colourless and downright ugly. Service is friendly enough, but sloppy: plates are habitually put down in front on the wrong person, wine glasses are never refilled and our waiter's mind obviously clocked out before his shift even began.The wine list is affordable, but it's unimaginative by today's standards and the mark-ups are steep. And I won't even get into the clunky dollar store glasses.F'Amelia has no faults in the kitchen, but the decor, service and wine program need tweaking to compete in a city crazy for Italian. Attention to detail is the difference between a good restaurant and a great one. F'Amelia12 Amelia St. (at Parliament Street)416-323-0666Dinner for two with wine, tax and tip: $135www.famelia.com