King of the mushrooms
Enoki were the first to crack the fungi cartel and now there is a cornucopia of exotic cultivated mushrooms, including clamshell, hon shemiji and cinnamon cap.
My favourite of the bunch is the king oyster mushroom, which sometimes goes by its Latin name of eryngii. The king oyster consists of a plump white stem topped with a tan cap. Due to its trumpet-like shape, it is sometimes called the royal trumpet.
The entire king oyster mushroom is edible and it doesn't need to be cleaned. It also seems to keep much longer than most mushrooms. I've seen them priced as high as $24.99 per pound, but they can be usually had for just $6.99 per pound at Asian supermarkets.
While essentially flavourless, king oyster mushrooms have an irresistible texture that is both silky and chewy. It is said to resemble abalone, hence it's Chinese name of xing bao gu or "almond abalone mushroom".
King oyster mushrooms are dry and they need a bit of liquid - be it wine, water or stock - to help lubricate the cooking process. The meaty texture also lends itself well to fritters and tempura.
They're perfectly happy in pasta or risotto, but they should be combined with other mushrooms that can give the dish a boost in the flavour department. Dried porcini offers a blast of woodsy flavour, which helps the king oyster live up to it's third moniker, the "poor man's porcini".
Stir-fried watercress and king oyster mushrooms
Yield: three to four servings
2 bunches watercress
3/4 lb king oyster mushrooms
2 tbsp vegetable oil
2 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
1 tbsp light soy sauce
1 tbsp Chinese rice wine or dry sherry
1/4 cup chicken or vegetable stock or water
salt
Wash the watercress in cold water and drain in a colander. Slice the mushrooms lengthwise 1/4-inch thick.
In a wok or large frying pan, heat 1 tbsp of oil over a high heat. Add half the garlic and let it sizzle for a few seconds. Add the watercress, season with salt and stir-fry until wilted. (Depending on the size of your pan, you may have to add the cress in stages.) On a serving platter, arrange the cress so it forms a border for the mushrooms.
Wipe the pan clean with a wadded up paper towel and return to the heat with the remaining oil. Add the remaining garlic and let it sizzle for a few seconds. Add the mushrooms, salt and the remaining ingredients. Stir-fry until the mushrooms are limp and the sauce has reduced to a glaze. Place the mushrooms in the middle of the cress and serve immediately.
