Food

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Assembling the holiday cheese board

 
 
It's time to loosen your belt and get ready for the holiday season, when the four food groups become cheese, cookies, dip and alcohol. Speaking of cheese, here are some tips on assembling an assiette de fromages that your guests will be taking about into the new year.

The key to a great cheese plate is balance. There should be cheeses of different tastes, textures, colours and styles. You should also aim to give equal billing to cheeses made from cow's, goat's and sheep's milk both raw and pasteurized.

While it's fun to try cheeses from all over the world, focusing on a certain country can be equally as fun.

With the rising number of artisan cheese makers right here in Canada, assembling a patriotic cheese plate should enlighten more than a few guests. Some Canadian cheeses that I have been enjoying of late include Jensen's three-year-old raw milk cheddar from Simcoe, Ontario, Thunder Oak Gouda from Thunder Bay, and Blue L'Ermite, a sharp, crumbly blue cheese from Quebec. To round it out with something gooey, try the salty, buttery Riopelle de l'Isle, also from Quebec.

Be adventuresome. Put yourself in the hands of a trusted cheesemonger and let them steer you toward cheeses that you would never think of trying. The best part is that you always get a taste before you have to commit.

Some cheese shops don't put out prices so don't be afraid to ask before they cut an expensive wedge out of your party budget. But remember that quality artisan cheese does not come cheap and it's worth splurging on some outrageously pricey cheeses such as Mimolette, a bright orange cow's milk cheese from France, and velvety Garrotxa from Spain. When it comes to cheese, there are no regrets.

For bread and crackers, I like to keep it simple: pumpkin seed chipolte foccacia may be delicious, but it will bully the flavours of the cheese. You can't go wrong with crusty baguette and low-sodium Stoned Wheat Thins, a simple cracker born for cheese. If you want to show off, get a box of the Cranberry Hazelnut Raincoast Crisps from Leslie Stowe.

Various accoutrements can enliven the cheese experience. Serve plump Medjool dates with Parmigiano-Reggiano, thinly sliced mutsu apple with cheddar, membrillo (quince paste) with Manchego and toasted walnuts with blue cheeses.

Lastly, and most importantly, serve your cheese plate at room temperature. Cheese is like chocolate: never fully enjoyed straight from the fridge.

While there is no shortage of fine cheesemongers in the city, near the foot of the Humber River you will find the Cheese Boutique (45 Ripley Ave., 416-762-6292, www.cheeseboutique.com), Toronto's temple for turophiles. Every cheese, cracker and accoutrement plus thousands of gourmet sundries can be found at this one-of-a-kind shop.