Food 'n' Around

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If you don't know it's a restaurant, you will think it is a big, ugly bank with a huge nose. This is the trademark of Gio Rana's Really Really Nice Restaurant that locals have come to know and love. On the northwest corner of Queen and Leslie streets (1220 Queen St. E. 416-469-5225) we found ourselves well fed.

The restaurant doesn't open until 6 p.m. but when we arrived a half hour earlier there were already six or so of the 50 or so tables full. All were having a drink from the flamboyant bartentender/host and happily waiting to hear that the kitchen was ready for us.

We started with a bottle of Shiraz (Milpara from Australia) which was not the one I had picked, but was convinced away from. Our informed waiter assured me that the one I had chosen was too sweet and his was much nicer at the same price of $36. He was right.

Such a nice wine at such a great price was the greatest way to wash down a proscuitto platter appetizer.

What I love about Gio's is its casual, good food and "just like home" approach. Our appetizer was no fancy deal, just great olives, cheese, fresh basil and a bowl of fruity olive oil to dip our bread in.

The d�©cor is of the early bombed out museum ilk. With picture-less frames and ripped wallpaper juxtaposed against chandeliers, this room somehow lets you kick off your shoes surreptitiously beneath the table.

Moving on to Garlic Shrimp that was succulent and sweet and Osso Bucco that was falling off the bone ($10.95 and $12.95) was our next move. Both were simple and yet saucy, home cooked but special. The veggies are ordered separately, here, and come together on a plate to share.

I really like the family style approach that allows me to eat huge amounts as is my way, and my husband to enjoy the meager helping that is his. We felt neither ripped off nor pushed by what was deemed the correct amount on the plate. I am often left wanting more veggies in a restaurant and this was a good way to address that concern. Roasted peppers were still firm and not the least bit slimy as they can be and the Rappini was still bright green and bitter, just the way it is meant to be ($4.95 each.)

I wish I was more of a dessert eater, and, though I did not taste, I saw that the comfortable fair portions and warm excellence of Gio's continues through to dessert.

And more wine, and maybe a glass of port, after all, your shoes aren't pinching your feet and your body isn't ready to move just yet when you are surrounded by convivial company.

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Theresa Albert-Ratchford is a personal chef and author of Cook Once and Week Eat Well Every Day and Host of the Food Network's Just One Bite.